Purple love grass (Eragrostis spectabilis) is a small native grass that thrives where many plants struggle: hot, dry, sunny ground with thin or sandy soil. It forms a low tuft of green blades about a foot tall, then in late summer throws up a haze of tiny reddish-purple flower panicles that make the whole clump look like it is wrapped in pink-purple smoke. It is hardy in roughly USDA zones 5 to 9, needs almost no care once established, and is happiest when you leave it alone. This guide covers where to plant it, how to start it from seed or plugs, how to care for it, and how to manage its tendency to self-sow.
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In this guide
Key Takeaways
- Native warm-season grass across much of the eastern and central US; hardy in about zones 5–9.
- Grows 1–2 ft tall and wide, with purple-red flower clouds from about August into fall.
- Needs full sun and well-drained soil; poor, sandy or gravelly ground is ideal.
- Do not fertilize or overwater; rich, wet soil makes it flop and rot.
- Cut back in late winter; it self-seeds readily, which is useful in meadows but may need editing in beds.
Purple Love Grass at a Glance
| Trait | Details |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Eragrostis spectabilis |
| Plant type | Native perennial warm-season bunchgrass |
| USDA zones | About 5–9 |
| Size | 1–2 ft tall and wide in bloom; foliage often under 12 in |
| Bloom time | Roughly August through September, seed heads into fall |
| Sun | Full sun (at least 6 hours) |
| Soil | Dry to medium, well-drained; sandy, gravelly or rocky is fine |
| Fall color | Foliage turns orange-red to tan |
| Tolerances | Drought, heat, poor soil, some road salt; deer rarely browse it |
Why Grow It
Most ornamental grasses that look this showy are big plants, 4 to 6 feet tall, which overwhelm a small yard. Purple love grass delivers the same late-season color and movement at a fraction of the size, which makes it valuable at the front of borders, along walkways, in rock gardens and on sunny slopes. As a native grass, it fits naturally into pollinator gardens and meadow plantings, and it provides cover and seed for small wildlife. Because it handles dry, low-fertility soil, it is a good choice for hell strips, gravel gardens and sandy coastal yards where lawn grass struggles. For a broader look at grasses, see our ornamental grasses guide, and for perennials to plant alongside it, our flowers and perennials guide.
Where to Plant Purple Love Grass
Sun
Full sun is essential. In shade, plants grow loose and sparse, flower poorly, and the purple color fades. Aim for at least six hours of direct sun, and more is better. Southern and western exposures that bake other plants are exactly where this grass performs best.
Soil and drainage
The single most important factor is drainage. In nature it grows in sandy fields, open woods, roadsides and disturbed ground. Sandy loam, gravel, rocky slopes and shallow soils are all suitable. It tolerates a wide pH range. Heavy clay that stays wet in winter is the most common cause of failure; if you have clay, plant on a slope or mound, or work in coarse sand and gravel to improve drainage. Rich garden soil with lots of compost tends to produce floppy, short-lived plants.
Design ideas
- Mass it in drifts of 7 to 15 plants along a sunny path, where the late-summer haze reads as a ribbon of color.
- Pair it with other dry-site natives such as butterfly weed, coneflowers, blazing star, aromatic aster and goldenrods.
- Use it at the front of taller grasses; it combines well with little bluestem and prairie dropseed.
- Plant it in gravel gardens, between boulders, or on sandy slopes for erosion control.
- Grow it in containers with other drought-tolerant plants; it adds a fine texture and a fall show.
Growing From Seed
Purple love grass is easy to grow from seed, which is why it can colonize open ground. The seed is very small and needs light and warmth to germinate.
- Timing: Sow outdoors in late spring once soil has warmed, typically after your last frost when soil is around 60–65°F or warmer. Indoors, start seed six to eight weeks before your last frost.
- Prepare the surface: Clear weeds and rake the soil smooth. Do not enrich it.
- Sow on the surface: Scatter seed and press it into contact with the soil. Cover only with a dusting of soil or not at all, since it needs light to germinate.
- Keep moist: Mist or gently water to keep the surface damp until seedlings appear, usually within about one to three weeks in warm conditions.
- Thin or transplant: Once seedlings have several leaves, thin or move them to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
Seed-grown plants often bloom lightly in their first year and fill out by the second. Some gardeners also winter-sow seed in containers outdoors, letting natural freeze-thaw cycles do the work; this works for many native grasses and wildflowers and is covered in our winter sowing guide.
Planting Plugs and Nursery Plants
Plugs or quart and gallon pots establish faster and give you a full display sooner. Plant in spring after frost or in early fall at least six weeks before the ground freezes.
- Spacing: 12 to 18 inches apart for a continuous drift; up to 24 inches for individual clumps.
- Depth: Set the crown at the soil surface, not buried.
- Water: Water thoroughly at planting and about once a week for the first four to six weeks if there is no rain.
- Mulch: Use a thin layer of gravel or no mulch at all. Thick bark mulch holds moisture around the crown and can encourage rot.
Ongoing Care
Watering
Once established, usually after the first full growing season, purple love grass rarely needs supplemental water except in prolonged severe drought. Overwatering, especially through irrigation systems that also water lawn, is one of the main reasons it struggles in home landscapes. If it is planted in an irrigated bed, keep it on the driest zone.
Fertilizing
Do not fertilize. Extra nitrogen produces soft, lush growth that flops open in the center and shortens the plant’s life. Lean soil keeps it compact and maximizes the purple flower color.
Cutting back
Leave the foliage and seed heads standing through winter. They add texture, the seed heads break apart and tumble in wind, and the dead leaves protect the crown. In late winter or early spring, before new green shoots appear, cut the clump back to about 2 to 4 inches. Our guide on cutting back ornamental grasses explains timing and tools. On small clumps, hand shears or even raking out the dead leaves works well.
Dividing
Purple love grass is often relatively short-lived as individual clumps, typically several years, but it replaces itself by seed. If a clump becomes open in the middle, lift and divide it in spring as new growth starts, or simply let a seedling take its place.
Managing Self-Seeding
Purple love grass reseeds freely in open, sunny ground with bare soil, which is a feature in meadows and naturalized areas and a chore in a tidy border. Seed heads can detach and roll like tumbleweeds, so seedlings may appear some distance from the parent plant. To keep it in check:
- Cut seed heads in late fall if you want to stop spread, though you will lose some winter interest.
- Pull unwanted seedlings in spring while small; they come up easily.
- Keep neighboring areas densely planted; seedlings need bare, open soil and sun to establish.
- Use gravel or thin mulch only where you are happy to let it spread.
Seedlings make easy transplants to fill gaps elsewhere, so many gardeners treat self-sowing as a free supply of plants.
Regional Growing Notes
Purple love grass performs a little differently across its range, so adjust expectations to your climate.
- Northern zones 5–6: Growth starts late, often not until soil warms in late spring, so do not assume a slow clump has died. Mark plants so you do not dig into them in April. Excellent winter drainage matters most here, since freeze-thaw cycles in wet soil can heave and rot crowns.
- Mid-Atlantic and Midwest, zones 6–7: This is the plant’s comfort zone. Expect full flowering by August and good orange-red fall color on sandy or gravelly sites.
- Southeast, zones 8–9: Heat is not a problem, but summer humidity and heavy rain on clay can be. Use raised or sloped beds and give plants generous airflow.
- Plains and arid West: It handles drought well but appreciates an occasional deep watering during extended dry heat in its first year. Gravel mulch helps keep crowns dry and cool.
- Coastal gardens: Sandy, fast-draining coastal soils suit it well, and it tolerates some salt spray, making it useful for dune-edge and seaside plantings.
Pests, Diseases and Problems
Purple love grass has very few pest or disease problems. The issues gardeners see are almost always cultural.
- Crown rot or plants dying over winter: Soil stays wet. Improve drainage, plant on a slope or mound, and avoid heavy mulch.
- Floppy, open clumps: Too much water, fertilizer or shade. Move to a leaner, sunnier spot.
- Weak flower color: Not enough sun. Purple tones are strongest in full sun.
- Plants overrun by weeds: Young plants are small and can be shaded out by aggressive neighbors. Keep the area weeded for the first season.
- Plants disappearing after several years: Normal for this short-lived grass; allow seedlings to replace old clumps.
Good Companions
Choose companions that like the same dry, sunny, lean conditions. Butterfly weed and other milkweeds, purple coneflower, black-eyed Susan, prairie smoke, blazing star, aromatic aster, little bluestem, side-oats grama and low sedums all pair well. For a fuller plan using native perennials and grasses together, see our native plant garden guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is purple love grass invasive?
It is native to much of the eastern and central United States, so it is not considered invasive there. It does self-seed readily in open, sunny soil, so it can spread beyond where you planted it. Pull unwanted seedlings in spring or remove seed heads in fall.
How tall does purple love grass get?
The foliage typically stays under about 12 inches, and in bloom the flower panicles bring the clump to roughly 1 to 2 feet tall and about as wide.
When does purple love grass bloom?
Flowers usually appear from about August into September, depending on your region, and the seed heads persist into fall. The display is at its most colorful in late summer.
Can purple love grass grow in clay soil?
It struggles in heavy clay that stays wet, especially in winter. If you have clay, plant it on a slope or raised mound, or amend with coarse sand and gravel to improve drainage.
Should I cut back purple love grass in the fall?
It is usually best to wait until late winter or early spring. Leaving the foliage protects the crown and provides winter interest; cut it back to a few inches before new growth emerges.