How to Care for a Ric Rac Cactus (Fishbone Cactus)

The ric rac cactus (Disocactus anguliger, formerly Epiphyllum anguliger), also called the fishbone cactus or zigzag cactus, is one of the most striking and easygoing cacti you can grow indoors, and it breaks almost every rule people associate with the word “cactus.” Its flattened, leaf-like stems zigzag down in dramatic green ric-rac waves, trailing handsomely from a hanging pot or shelf. There are no fierce spines to speak of, it does not want a baking windowsill, and it definitely does not want to be left bone-dry for a month. That is because it is not a desert cactus at all: it is an epiphytic jungle cactus.

Native to the rainforests of southern Mexico, the fishbone cactus grows as an epiphyte, perched on tree branches in the dappled shade of the canopy with its roots in pockets of leaf litter and moss rather than in soil. Understanding that origin unlocks its care. It wants bright but indirect light, like the filtered light under a canopy; more water and humidity than a desert cactus; and a chunky, airy, fast-draining medium that mimics the loose debris it roots into. Get those right and a mature plant rewards you with large, fragrant, night-blooming flowers, one of the most spectacular displays in the houseplant world.

This guide walks through the light, watering, humidity, soil, temperature, and feeding that keep a ric rac cactus thriving, how to coax those legendary blooms, and how to propagate it from its easy-rooting stem segments.

Light: Bright and Indirect, Not Full Sun

Because people see “cactus” and picture a sun-blasted desert, ric rac cactus is often given far too much direct sun. As a canopy-dwelling epiphyte, it actually wants bright, indirect light, the kind of filtered brightness it would get growing on a tree branch under the forest canopy. An east-facing window with gentle morning light is excellent, as is a spot near a bright south- or west-facing window where the harsh midday rays are diffused by a sheer curtain or are off to the side. In good indirect light the stems stay a healthy green, grow vigorously, and the plant is far more likely to flower.

Too much direct sun, especially intense afternoon sun through glass, scorches the flat stems, bleaching them to a yellowish or reddish hue and leaving sunburned patches. On the other side, in deep shade the plant grows slowly, the stems can look thin and weak, and it is unlikely to bloom. So aim for plenty of light without the punishing direct rays. A little soft morning sun is beneficial and can encourage flowering, but protect it from the hottest part of the day. This is exactly the bright-indirect preference shared by the trailing plant in our string of hearts care guide.

Watering: More Than a Desert Cactus

This is the care point people get most wrong. A fishbone cactus needs noticeably more water than a desert cactus. In the rainforest its roots sit in moisture-holding leaf litter and moss and rarely dry out completely for long, so the houseplant wants to be kept lightly moist during the growing season, not parched. The practical rule is to water when the top inch or so of soil has dried out, keeping the mix evenly moist but never waterlogged or soggy.

Water thoroughly so the whole root ball is moistened, let the excess drain away, and never leave the pot standing in water, because despite liking moisture it will still rot in constantly soggy soil. In a bright spot during spring and summer this often means watering roughly once a week, but check the soil rather than relying on a schedule. The flat stems give useful feedback: plump, firm stems mean it is well hydrated, while stems that look thin, wrinkled, or limp mean it is thirsty and ready for a drink.

The exception is winter. To trigger blooming, the plant benefits from a cooler, drier rest in the colder months, so reduce watering and let the soil dry out more between drinks from late fall through winter, then resume regular watering in spring. Overwatering year-round, by contrast, leads to yellowing, mushy stems and root rot, so the goal is consistently moist in summer, distinctly drier in winter, and never standing in water.

Humidity, Temperature, Soil, and Feeding

True to its jungle origins, the ric rac cactus appreciates moderate humidity, ideally around 50% or more, though it adapts to average household air better than many tropical plants. In a dry home you can boost humidity with a pebble tray, a nearby humidifier, or by grouping it with other plants, which also keeps the stems looking plump and healthy. It is not as demanding about humidity as a fern, so do not stress over it, but a bit extra is welcome, particularly in winter heating season.

Keep it in normal warm room temperatures of about 65-80°F (18-27°C) for most of the year, and protect it from cold below roughly 50°F (10°C); it has no frost tolerance. The one nuance is that a cooler spell in winter, with nights down around 50-60°F (10-16°C) along with the drier rest, helps initiate flower buds. For soil, use a chunky, airy, fast-draining mix that mimics the loose organic debris it roots into: a quality potting mix combined with orchid bark, perlite, and a little coco coir works well, or an epiphytic-cactus or orchid-style blend. A standard gritty desert-cactus mix is too lean and dries too fast for this jungle species. Always use a pot with drainage holes. Feed during spring and summer with a balanced or bloom-supporting houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength every few weeks, and stop in fall and winter. For help selecting the base medium, see our comparison of potting mix vs. garden soil.

Getting It to Bloom

The reward for good care is the flowers. A mature, well-grown ric rac cactus produces large, showy, often fragrant blooms in shades of white, cream, and yellow, and dramatically, they open at night and are typically short-lived, sometimes lasting just a single evening before fading. It is a fleeting but unforgettable display, and the night-blooming, fragrant habit is meant to attract nocturnal pollinators like moths and bats in the wild.

To encourage flowering, three things matter most. First, maturity: the plant needs to be a few years old and well-established before it will bloom, so patience is part of the deal. Second, plenty of bright, indirect light through the growing season builds the energy for buds. Third, and most important, give it that cool, drier winter rest, reducing water and letting it experience cooler nights for several weeks. This dormancy period mimics the natural seasonal cue that triggers bud formation. Once buds appear in spring or summer, resume normal watering and try not to move or rotate the plant, as fishbone cactus buds can drop if the plant is disturbed or its light direction suddenly changes.

How to Propagate the Fishbone Cactus

Propagating ric rac cactus is one of the easiest jobs in houseplant care, and spring or summer is the ideal time. Cut a healthy stem segment several inches long with clean pruners. Then, crucially, let the cut end callus over by leaving it in a dry, shaded spot for a few days to a week until the wound dries and seals; this step is what prevents the cutting from rotting once it goes into soil.

Once callused, insert the cut end an inch or so into a pot of the same chunky, well-draining mix, keep the soil lightly moist (not soggy), and place it in bright, indirect light. Roots usually form within a few weeks, after which you can treat the cutting as a normal plant. You can also let cuttings root in water before potting, though soil rooting tends to produce sturdier roots. Planting several cuttings in one pot creates a fuller, more cascading plant faster. Because cuttings root so willingly, this is a great plant to share. For more easy trailing plants to grow alongside it, browse our plants and flowers hub.

Common Problems and Fixes

Yellowing, mushy, or soft stems mean overwatering and possible root rot, so let the plant dry out, improve drainage, and check the roots. Thin, wrinkled, or limp stems mean it is too dry, fixed with more consistent watering. Bleached, yellowed, or reddish scorched stems mean too much direct sun, so move it to brighter indirect light instead. No flowers on a mature plant usually means it is not getting a cool, dry winter rest or enough bright light during the growing season. Buds dropping before opening often results from moving or rotating the plant, inconsistent watering, or a sudden change in conditions while in bud, so keep things steady once buds form.

Pests are uncommon but watch for mealybugs tucked along the stem notches, plus the occasional scale or spider mite (mites are more likely if the air is hot and dry). Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, dabbing mealybugs with a rubbing-alcohol swab, and repeat weekly until they clear. Good airflow and avoiding constantly soggy soil keep fungal issues away. Inspect any new plant before placing it near your collection.