Spring is the busiest and most rewarding season in the garden. As the soil warms and the days lengthen, you can begin sowing seeds, setting out transplants, and planting the bulbs that will carry colour through summer. This guide walks you through what to plant and when, working outward from your last-frost date so cool-season crops, warm-season favourites, flowers, bulbs, perennials, herbs and even your lawn all go in at the right moment.
Key takeaways
- Know your last-frost date
- Cool-season crops first, then warm-season
- Plant summer bulbs (dahlia, gladiolus)
- Harden off seedlings before planting out
- Tropical climates plant year-round
Start with your last-frost date
Almost every spring planting decision hangs on one number: your average last spring frost date. This is the point after which a damaging frost becomes unlikely, and it varies enormously by region. In much of the southern United States it falls in March, across the temperate middle of the country in April, and in cold northern zones not until late May or even early June. Gardeners in the UK and northern Europe see a similar mid-to-late-spring window, while those in the Southern Hemisphere should simply shift the calendar by six months.
Find your local date from a regional extension service or a frost-date lookup tool, then use it as your anchor. Cold-tolerant crops can go out several weeks before it; tender, heat-loving plants must wait until after it has safely passed. Soil temperature matters too: a cheap soil thermometer tells you more than the calendar, since seeds rot in cold, wet ground no matter the date. For tropical climates such as Singapore, frost is irrelevant entirely, and the calendar below does not apply, see the year-round note further down.
Cool-season vegetables to plant first
Cool-season vegetables actually prefer the chilly, damp conditions of early spring and will bolt or turn bitter once summer heat arrives. Sow or transplant these as soon as the soil can be worked, typically two to six weeks before your last frost. Many tolerate light frost and reward you with quick harvests before the warm-season crops are even in the ground.
- Direct sow: peas, spinach, radishes, carrots, beets, turnips, arugula and salad greens
- Transplants: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale and Brussels sprouts
- Alliums: onion sets, shallots and leeks
- Roots and tubers: potatoes (chitted), and asparagus crowns for a long-term bed
- Quick wins: lettuce, chard, kohlrabi and bok choy in succession every two weeks
Short on ground space? Many of these thrive in pots on a patio or balcony, see our guide to the best vegetables to grow in containers for varieties suited to confined roots.
Warm-season vegetables after the last frost
Once your last frost has passed and the soil has warmed to at least 15-18°C (60-65°F), it is time for the heat-lovers. These plants are killed or stunted by cold, so resist the urge to rush them out. Most are best started indoors four to eight weeks earlier and transplanted, though beans, squash and corn are happy sown directly into warm ground.
- Nightshades (transplant): tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and tomatillos
- Cucurbits: cucumbers, zucchini, summer and winter squash, melons and pumpkins
- Direct sow: bush and pole beans, sweetcorn, okra and edamame
- Heat-lovers: sweet potatoes (slips) and basil once nights stay mild
Whether home-grown or shop-bought, do not plant any tender seedling straight out, harden it off first, as described later in this guide.
Annual flowers for instant colour
Annual flowers give a fast, generous display in a single season. As with vegetables, split them into hardy types that shrug off a light frost and tender types that wait until the cold has gone. Sow hardy annuals early for the longest show; hold tender ones until the soil is reliably warm.
- Hardy annuals (early): sweet peas, calendula, larkspur, snapdragons, pansies and cornflowers
- Tender annuals (after frost): zinnias, cosmos, marigolds, sunflowers and nasturtiums
- Heat-tolerant bedding: petunias, salvia, celosia and impatiens
- Pollinator favourites: alyssum, borage and single-flowered dahlias
For feeding, deadheading and watering routines that keep blooms coming all season, see our plant & flower care guide.
Summer-flowering bulbs to plant now
Spring is bulb-planting time, not for the daffodils and tulips you enjoy this season (those go in during autumn) but for the tender summer-flowering bulbs, corms and tubers that will bloom from midsummer to first frost. Plant them once the soil has warmed and frost danger has passed, since most cannot survive freezing ground.
- Dahlias: tubers planted after the last frost for late-summer to autumn flowers
- Gladiolus: corms planted in batches every two weeks for a long succession of spikes
- Lilies: Asiatic and Oriental bulbs for fragrant midsummer blooms
- Others: begonias, cannas, ranunculus, freesia and crocosmia
Dahlias in particular reward a little attention with staking, pinching and lifting in cold climates, so read our dedicated dahlia care guide before you plant.
Perennials, shrubs and herbs
Spring is the ideal window to establish long-lived plants while the soil is moist and cool, giving roots time to settle before summer heat. Perennials and hardy shrubs can usually go in earlier than tender vegetables, while most herbs follow the same hardy-versus-tender split as flowers.
- Perennials: echinacea, daylilies, hostas, salvia, peonies and ornamental grasses
- Shrubs and roses: bare-root roses, hydrangeas, fruit bushes and container-grown shrubs
- Hardy herbs (early): parsley, chives, cilantro, dill, thyme, oregano and mint
- Tender herbs (after frost): basil, tarragon, and tender rosemary in cold zones
Water new plantings deeply and mulch to lock in moisture; their first season is the most vulnerable, and a thorough soak once or twice a week beats frequent shallow watering for encouraging deep roots. Spring is also the moment to divide overcrowded clumps of established perennials such as hostas and daylilies, replanting the divisions to expand your beds for free. Many of these are also perfect autumn projects, so once summer winds down, browse what to plant in fall to keep the beds productive.
Lawn care and seeding in spring
Lawns wake up in spring, and a little timely work sets them up for the year. The right approach depends on your grass type: cool-season grasses can be over-seeded in early spring, while warm-season grasses are best seeded or laid a bit later once soil temperatures climb.
- Cool-season seed: fescue, ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass in early to mid spring
- Warm-season seed or sod: Bermuda, zoysia and St. Augustine once soil hits 18-21°C (65-70°F)
- Renovation tasks: rake out thatch, aerate compacted areas and over-seed bare patches
- Feeding: a light spring fertiliser and pre-emergent weed control where needed
Keep newly seeded areas consistently moist until the grass establishes, watering lightly once or twice a day rather than soaking, and avoid mowing too short while it fills in. Hold off on heavy foot traffic over fresh seed, and wait until new grass reaches mowing height before its first cut so the young roots are not disturbed.
Hardening off seedlings before planting out
Seedlings raised indoors or in a greenhouse have never felt direct sun, wind or temperature swings, and moving them straight outdoors can shock or kill them. Hardening off is the gradual transition that toughens them up over seven to fourteen days. Start by setting plants outside in a sheltered, shaded spot for an hour or two, then increase their time and sun exposure a little each day, bringing them in overnight at first. By the end of the period they can stay out around the clock and are ready to transplant. Water well, choose a calm, overcast day to plant out, and your investment of months of indoor growing will pay off.
Tropical climates: planting year-round
If you garden in a tropical climate such as Singapore, Malaysia or much of Southeast Asia, the entire frost-based calendar above does not apply. With warm temperatures all year, the limiting factors are rainfall and heat rather than cold. You can sow and harvest in continuous succession, choosing heat-tolerant vegetables like kangkong, long beans, okra, sweet potato leaves and chillies, alongside tropical herbs and perennial flowers. Plant ahead of, or just after, the heaviest monsoon rains, provide afternoon shade for tender greens, and lean on containers and raised beds for better drainage. The reward is a garden that produces every month of the year.
Frequently asked questions
How do I find my last-frost date?
Check a regional extension service or an online frost-date lookup using your postcode or ZIP code. It gives the average date after which frost is unlikely. Pair it with a soil thermometer, since cold, wet soil can stall seeds even after the calendar date passes.
What can I plant before the last frost?
Cool-season crops and hardy annuals tolerate light frost: peas, spinach, radishes, carrots, broccoli, kale, onions, potatoes, plus sweet peas, calendula and pansies. Most hardy perennials, shrubs and herbs like parsley and chives can also go in early.
When should I plant dahlias and gladiolus?
Plant these tender summer bulbs after your last frost, once the soil has warmed. Stagger gladiolus corms every couple of weeks for a longer succession of blooms, and start dahlia tubers in pots indoors a few weeks early in cold regions to get a head start.
Why do I need to harden off seedlings?
Indoor-raised seedlings have not experienced direct sun, wind or temperature swings. Moving them outdoors gradually over one to two weeks lets them adapt, preventing transplant shock, scorched leaves and stunted growth once they are in the ground.
Can I plant year-round in a tropical climate?
Yes. In tropical regions like Singapore there is no frost, so the frost-based calendar does not apply. You can plant in continuous succession all year, focusing on heat-tolerant crops and timing sowings around the monsoon rains rather than the seasons.