Preparing for termite tenting comes down to five jobs: get every living thing out (people, pets, fish and houseplants), remove or seal food and medicine in the special bags your fumigator provides, arrange for the gas to be shut off, open up the inside of the house so the fumigant can reach every void, and prep the landscaping around the foundation so the tarps can seal against the ground. Most households are out for about two to three nights. Your fumigation company will give you its own written prep list, and that list always wins over any general guide, including this one. Use the checklist below to plan ahead so nothing gets missed in the final rush.
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In this guide
Key Takeaways
- Remove all people, pets, fish, reptiles and houseplants. The fumigant is lethal to all of them.
- Food, medicine, pet food and tobacco must be removed or double-bagged in the special nylon fumigation bags provided, unless in unopened factory-sealed glass, metal or plastic containers per your fumigator’s rules.
- Call your gas utility well in advance to schedule shutoff and relighting; many fumigators require it.
- Trim plants back from the walls, rake mulch and gravel away from the foundation, and water the soil along the house the day before.
- Open interior doors, cabinets, drawers and closets; leave every exterior lock and gate accessible to the crew.
What Termite Tenting Is and Why Prep Matters
Structural fumigation, usually called tenting, covers the whole house with gas-tight tarps and fills it with a fumigant gas, most commonly sulfuryl fluoride, for roughly a day. The gas penetrates wood, walls and furniture to kill drywood termites and other wood-boring insects throughout the structure. A warning agent (chloropicrin, a tear gas) is released first to drive out anyone who might have been missed. After the exposure period, the crew removes the tarps, ventilates the home and uses a detection device to confirm the gas has dropped to the legal re-entry level before you are cleared to return.
Tenting is mainly used for drywood termites that live inside the wood itself. Subterranean termites, which come up from the soil, are usually treated with soil termiticides or bait systems instead. If you are not sure which you have, see our guides to signs of termites and how to get rid of termites.
Two Weeks Before: Plan and Book
- Get the written prep list and contract. Read it fully. Note the date and times you must be out, when tarps go up and come down, and who to call on the day.
- Schedule gas shutoff. Call your gas utility as soon as you have a date. Many fumigation companies require the gas to be turned off at the meter before tarping and relit by the utility afterward. Utilities often need several days’ notice.
- Book a place to stay for two to three nights, plus pet boarding or a pet-friendly hotel.
- Arrange plant care. Find a neighbor, friend or a shaded spot for houseplants.
- Tell your neighbors. Tarps and crews will be along shared fences and side yards, and your neighbors may want to move cars or plants away from the property line.
- Plan for fish tanks and aquariums. Fish and other aquatic pets must leave the house. Ask a pet store about temporary housing.
- Ask about solar panels, roof items and alarms. Rooftop items such as satellite dishes, antennas and some solar setups may need special handling. Tell your alarm company that the system will be off.
If you have not yet picked a company, our guide on how to choose a termite company covers licensing, warranties and questions to ask.
Food, Medicine and Kitchen Checklist
The fumigant does not leave a meaningful residue on surfaces, but rules require food and medicine to be protected. Your fumigator will supply special nylon polymer fumigation bags (often called Nylofume bags) designed to block the gas. Regular trash bags, zip bags and plastic wrap do not work.
| Item | What to do |
|---|---|
| Opened food in the pantry and fridge | Remove from the house or double-bag in fumigation bags and seal as instructed |
| Unopened items in factory-sealed glass, metal or plastic containers | Usually may stay; confirm with your fumigator’s list |
| Items in paper, cardboard or cellophane, even unopened | Remove or bag (cereal boxes, chips, flour, sugar, crackers) |
| Refrigerator and freezer contents | Remove or bag; many people cook down and empty the fridge beforehand |
| Medications, vitamins, supplements | Remove from the house or bag; take prescriptions with you |
| Pet food and treats | Remove or bag |
| Tobacco, cannabis, oral care items (toothpaste, mouthwash) | Remove or bag |
| Wine, liquor and sealed bottles | Unopened bottles with original seals usually stay; remove or bag opened bottles |
Bag double: one fumigation bag inside another, each closed and twisted as directed. Many families find it easier to box up the pantry and take it to a friend’s garage. Plan meals so the fridge is nearly empty by fumigation day.
People, Pets and Plants
- People: everyone leaves before tarping starts and stays out until the company clears re-entry.
- Pets: dogs, cats, birds, reptiles, rodents and fish all go. Do not forget outdoor pets in side yards and chickens near the house.
- Houseplants: the fumigant kills plants. Move every indoor plant out, including those on enclosed patios, sunrooms and in the garage. Our guide on acclimating houseplants has tips for keeping them happy in temporary light.
- Potted plants on porches and patios: move them well away from where tarps will lie.
Prepping the Yard and Landscaping
Tarps need a tight seal against the ground, and plants right next to the house can be damaged by heat under the tarps, the crew’s foot traffic and, in some cases, the gas. Doing this prep a day or two ahead protects your landscaping.
- Trim back shrubs and vines. Cut plants back so there is clearance between foliage and walls, typically 12 to 18 inches; check your company’s requirement. Remove vines growing on the walls.
- Pull back mulch, rock and gravel. Rake ground cover away from the foundation for the width your fumigator specifies, often about 12 to 18 inches, so tarps and sand snakes seal against bare soil.
- Water the soil along the foundation. Thoroughly soak the ground next to the house the day before. Moist soil helps the seal and helps protect nearby plant roots.
- Turn off sprinklers for the tenting period so they do not spray the tarps, and mark sprinkler heads near the house.
- Move outdoor furniture, grills and planters away from the walls.
- Clear access around the whole perimeter, including side yards and behind sheds.
Plants directly against the walls may still show stress afterward. Water them well once you are back. Most established shrubs recover quickly. For the full picture on protecting your yard from pests year-round, see our pest control guide.
Inside the House: The Day Before
- Open everything inside: interior doors, closets, kitchen and bath cabinets, drawers, appliance doors (fridge, freezer, dishwasher, oven) and attic access, so gas can circulate and later ventilate.
- Remove plastic mattress and pillow covers that are airtight, or unzip them, as many fumigators require. Waterproof crib mattress covers too.
- Turn off HVAC, fans and pilot lights as instructed. Turn off lights on timers and unplug space heaters.
- Raise blinds and open curtains if the crew asks, to aid ventilation later.
- Unlock all exterior doors, including attic, crawl space, garage and shed doors attached to the house, and leave keys with the company as directed.
- Secure valuables. Take jewelry, important documents, laptops and medications with you.
- Move cars out of an attached garage.
- Remove or bag anything you will consume per the food checklist above.
Fumigation Day and Re-entry
On the morning of fumigation, the crew walks through the house with you or confirms the prep list, then tarps the house and secures it with warning signs and locks. The fumigant is released, held for the exposure period your contract specifies, then the tarps are removed and the house is ventilated. Before you can return, the licensed fumigator tests the air in living spaces with a detection device and clears the home only when levels are at or below the legal re-entry limit. Do not enter early for any reason.
When You Return
- Have the gas utility relight pilots, or follow the company’s instructions.
- Open windows for extra fresh air if you like; there is no need to wash every surface.
- Unbag food and medicine and discard the fumigation bags.
- Water plants along the foundation and replace mulch.
- Expect to see dead insects for a few weeks; termite droppings already in the walls may continue to fall.
- Keep your fumigation paperwork and warranty in case of future swarmers.
Fumigation kills termites present at the time but does not prevent new ones from arriving later. Ask your company about follow-up options such as borate wood treatments for exposed wood; see borate wood treatment for termites.
Common Prep Mistakes
- Calling the gas company too late: if the utility cannot come, the fumigation may be rescheduled.
- Forgetting hidden food: snacks in desk drawers, car-trip bags, bedside tables, kids’ rooms, guest-room minibars and the garage fridge.
- Using ordinary plastic bags: only the fumigation bags supplied by the company are approved.
- Missing a plant: a single pot in a bathroom or on a high shelf will die.
- Locking an interior space: locked closets, storage rooms or a locked attic hatch can delay the job or leave a space untreated.
- Skipping the foundation watering: dry soil makes it harder to seal tarps and leaves foundation plantings more exposed.
Printable Checklist
- Gas shutoff and relight scheduled
- Lodging and pet boarding booked
- Houseplants and aquariums relocated
- Food, medicine, pet food and tobacco removed or double-bagged
- Fridge and freezer emptied or bagged
- Shrubs trimmed and mulch pulled back from foundation
- Soil along foundation watered the day before
- Sprinklers off
- Interior doors, cabinets, drawers and appliances open
- Airtight mattress covers removed
- HVAC and fans off
- All exterior doors unlocked; keys delivered
- Cars out of the garage; valuables with you
- Neighbors and alarm company notified
Frequently Asked Questions
How long do you have to stay out for termite tenting?
Most households are out for about two to three nights, including setup, the exposure period, ventilation and clearance testing. Your contract gives the exact schedule, which can vary with house size and weather.
Do I have to remove everything from my house for tenting?
No. Furniture, clothes, dishes and electronics stay. You must remove living things and remove or bag food, medicine, pet food and tobacco as your fumigator instructs.
Do I need to wash dishes and clothes after fumigation?
Generally no. The fumigant is a gas that ventilates out and does not leave a meaningful residue. Follow your company’s guidance if they suggest anything specific.
Why does the gas have to be turned off?
Many fumigators require gas service to be shut off at the meter before tarping so no pilot lights or appliances run while the house is sealed. The utility or a qualified technician restores service afterward.
Will termite tenting kill my outdoor plants?
Plants right against the house can be stressed by tarp heat, foot traffic and the gas. Trimming them back, pulling mulch away and watering the soil the day before reduces damage, and most established plants recover.