Tree peonies are woody, deciduous shrubs, not trees, that grow 3 to 5 feet tall (sometimes taller with age) and produce some of the largest flowers in the temperate garden, often 6 to 10 inches across, in mid to late spring. Unlike familiar herbaceous peonies, their stems do not die to the ground in winter; the woody framework stays, and next year’s flowers come from buds on that wood. They are hardy in roughly USDA Zones 4 to 8. Plant them in early fall with the graft union 4 to 6 inches below the soil, choose a spot with morning sun and some afternoon shade, give them well-drained soil they can stay in for decades, and never cut them to the ground. With patience through the first two or three years, a single plant can bloom for generations.
Part of our Trees & Shrubs guide →
In this guide
Key Takeaways
- Tree peonies are woody shrubs hardy in about Zones 4 to 8; they keep their stems over winter and bloom on old wood.
- Plant in September or October, with grafted plants set so the graft union is 4 to 6 inches deep, letting the top grow its own roots.
- Morning sun with afternoon shade protects the huge, short-lived flowers, especially south of Zone 6.
- Do not cut stems to the ground; prune only dead wood and occasional old stems in spring.
- Expect a slow start: two to three years before strong flowering, then decades of bloom.
Tree Peonies vs Herbaceous Peonies
| Factor | Tree peony | Herbaceous peony |
|---|---|---|
| Growth habit | Woody shrub; stems persist | Dies to ground each winter |
| Height | About 3 to 5 ft, older plants taller | About 2 to 3 ft |
| Bloom time | Mid to late spring, usually 1 to 3 weeks before herbaceous | Late spring to early summer |
| Flower size | Often 6 to 10 inches | Usually 3 to 7 inches |
| Planting depth | Graft union 4 to 6 inches deep | Eyes 1 to 2 inches deep |
| Fall cleanup | Do not cut back | Cut stems to ground |
| Light | Sun to part shade; afternoon shade helps | Full sun preferred |
| Hardiness | About Zones 4 to 8 | About Zones 3 to 8 |
A third group, Itoh or intersectional peonies, crosses the two: herbaceous habit with tree-peony-like flowers and foliage. We compare them in Itoh vs herbaceous peonies. For herbaceous types, see our main guide on how to grow peonies.
Types of Tree Peonies
- Chinese tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa forms): very large, heavy, often fully double flowers that may nod under their weight. Classic and spectacular.
- Japanese tree peonies: selections of the same species with flowers held more upright, often semi-double, with lighter petals. Many are sold under Japanese cultivar names.
- Rockii (Gansu) types: white to pink flowers with dramatic dark maroon flares at the base of each petal; noted for good cold hardiness.
- Lutea hybrids: crosses with the yellow-flowered species, bringing yellow, apricot and coppery shades and a slightly later bloom.
Buying a Tree Peony
Tree peonies are sold in three main forms, and each affects how quickly you get flowers:
- Bare-root grafts: shipped dormant in fall by specialty nurseries. The most economical way to get named cultivars, but they take the longest to bloom.
- Potted grafts: sold at garden centers in spring, often already in bud. They establish a bit faster, but check that the graft was planted deep in the pot or plan to set it deeper when you plant.
- Own-root plants: grown from cuttings, divisions or layers rather than grafts. They are less common and usually cost more, but they never sucker from a rootstock.
Look for at least two or three sturdy woody stems with plump buds, and avoid plants with blackened stems or soft, mushy bases. Two- or three-year-old plants usually bloom sooner than one-year grafts. Bare-root herbaceous peonies follow a different process; see how to plant bare-root peonies if you are planting both.
Choosing a Site
A tree peony can live for many decades and dislikes being moved, so choose the spot carefully. It wants:
- Light: at least four to six hours of sun. In Zones 4 to 6, full sun is fine; in Zones 7 and 8, morning sun and afternoon or dappled shade keep flowers from fading and wilting in a day.
- Shelter: protection from strong wind, which shreds the huge petals. A spot near a hedge, wall or fence on the east side of the house is ideal.
- Drainage: well-drained soil is essential. Tree peonies tolerate clay if it drains, but not wet feet in winter.
- Soil pH: near neutral, roughly 6.5 to 7.5. Add lime to strongly acidic soil based on a test.
- Space: allow 4 to 5 feet between plants and from other shrubs, and keep them away from the roots of big trees that compete for water.
Tree peonies fit naturally into mixed shrub borders and woodland edges. Our trees and shrubs hub covers companion shrubs and border layout.
How to Plant a Tree Peony
Most tree peonies are sold as grafts: a short tree peony scion grafted onto a herbaceous peony root. The herbaceous root is a nurse root that keeps the graft alive until the tree peony grows its own roots. Planting deeply is what allows that, and it is the most important step.
- Plant in early fall, September to October in most regions, so roots grow while the soil is warm. Container plants can also go in during spring.
- Dig a wide hole, roughly 18 to 24 inches across and deep, and mix a few shovels of compost into the backfill.
- Find the graft union, usually visible as a change in stem texture or a slight swelling near the base.
- Set the plant so the graft union sits 4 to 6 inches below the finished soil level. On own-root plants, plant at the depth they grew in the pot or slightly deeper.
- Backfill and firm gently, then water deeply.
- Mulch 2 inches deep with shredded bark or leaves, kept a few inches from the stems.
Over a few years, the buried tree peony stem produces its own roots and the herbaceous nurse root fades. Plants set too shallow often keep relying on the rootstock, which can send up suckers and eventually overtake the graft.
Watering and Feeding
Water deeply every week or so during the first growing season if rain is short. Established plants are fairly drought tolerant but bloom better with an inch of water a week from bud break through early summer. Avoid frequent shallow watering and keep sprinklers off the foliage to reduce disease.
Feed lightly. In early spring as buds swell, and again after flowering, scatter a balanced or low-nitrogen fertilizer, or top-dress with compost. Excess nitrogen produces soft growth and fewer flowers. Bone meal or a bloom-type fertilizer is fine if a soil test shows low phosphorus.
Pruning Tree Peonies
The most common mistake is treating a tree peony like a herbaceous peony and cutting it to the ground in fall. That removes all of next year’s flower buds and can set the plant back years.
- Wait until spring when buds swell, so you can see what is alive.
- Cut dead tips back to the first healthy, plump bud.
- Remove dead or broken stems at the base.
- Deadhead spent flowers after bloom, cutting just below the seed pod, unless you want seed.
- Renew old plants by removing one or two of the oldest, least productive stems at the base every few years.
- Remove rootstock suckers: shoots from below ground with herbaceous peony leaves, which look softer and more finely cut, should be cut off at their origin.
Bloom Time and Supporting Flowers
Tree peonies usually open a week or more before herbaceous peonies, often in May in the Mid-Atlantic and Midwest. Each flower lasts only several days, and the whole show may run about two weeks. Heavy double Chinese types may nod; a discreet stake or a peony ring helps, and our roundup of the best peony supports lists options. Rain on open blooms is the biggest threat, so a sheltered spot pays off.
Companion Plants
Because tree peonies flower for only a couple of weeks, plant around them for the rest of the year. Spring bulbs such as daffodils and alliums bloom around the same time. Hostas, hellebores, ferns and Japanese forest grass suit the part-shade conditions and cover the base. Later-blooming shrubs such as hydrangeas and perennials such as Japanese anemones carry the bed through summer and fall. Keep vigorous groundcovers and shallow-rooted perennials at least 18 inches from the crown so they do not compete for water and nutrients.
Winter Care
Established tree peonies handle winter well in their zone range. The bigger risk is a warm spell in late winter followed by a hard freeze after buds have swelled, which can kill flower buds. A site that warms slowly in spring, such as an east or north exposure, reduces that risk. In Zone 4 or exposed sites, wrap young plants loosely in burlap for winter, and knock off heavy snow that could break the brittle stems.
Problems and Fixes
- Botrytis blight: buds turn brown or black and fail to open, and stems may wilt at the base, especially in wet springs. Remove infected parts, clean up debris in fall and improve air circulation.
- No flowers: plants too young, too much shade, cut back in fall, late frost on buds or too much nitrogen. See why a peony is not blooming for a full checklist.
- Herbaceous leaves appearing at the base: rootstock suckers; cut them off.
- Leaf spots in late summer: common and mostly cosmetic; clean up fallen leaves.
- Dieback of stem tips over winter: normal to a degree; prune back to live buds in spring.
Deer and rabbits generally leave peonies alone, which is a bonus in rural gardens. For general peony maintenance through the year, our peony care guide fills in the details.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do you cut back tree peonies in the fall?
No. Tree peonies bloom from buds on their woody stems. Leave the stems standing and prune only dead wood in spring, once you can see which buds are alive.
How long until a tree peony blooms?
Young grafted plants often take two to three years after planting to bloom well. Once established, they bloom reliably each spring for many decades.
How deep should I plant a grafted tree peony?
Set the graft union about 4 to 6 inches below the soil surface. This encourages the tree peony to grow its own roots and reduces suckering from the herbaceous rootstock.
Can tree peonies grow in shade?
They do well in part shade, especially with morning sun and afternoon shade in warmer zones. Deep shade reduces flowering.
Can I move an established tree peony?
It is possible in early fall with a large root ball, but tree peonies resent disturbance and may skip blooming for a year or more. Choose a permanent site at planting.