How to Grow Lilies (Asiatic, Oriental & Trumpet)

Few flowers deliver as much drama as true lilies. Rising on tall stems, their trumpet-shaped blooms open in midsummer with colors and fragrance that turn an ordinary border into something memorable. The good news is that lilies are bulbs, which means most of the hard work is already packed inside them — your job is mainly to plant them well and stay out of the way.

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True lilies vs. daylilies (and other imposters)

Before you buy anything, it helps to know what a lily actually is. A true lily belongs to the genus Lilium. It grows from a scaly bulb and produces one tall, unbranched stem lined with leaves, topped by several large flowers. Asiatic, Oriental, and trumpet lilies are all true lilies, and they all behave in roughly the same way.

A daylily (Hemerocallis) is not a true lily at all, despite the name. It grows from fleshy roots, sends up grassy clumps of foliage, and each individual flower lasts only a single day. Daylilies are tougher and more forgiving than true lilies, but the care is completely different — so if your plant tag says Hemerocallis, this guide is not the one to follow. The same goes for peace lilies, calla lilies, and lily of the valley, none of which are Lilium either. One thing many of them do share, however, is toxicity to cats, which we cover in detail below.

Types of lilies and when they bloom

The three garden workhorses bloom in a relay through summer, so planting a mix gives you color from early summer into early fall.

Asiatic lilies (early summer)

• Bloom time: early to midsummer, the first lilies to flower.
• Height: usually 2 to 4 feet, often self-supporting.
• Fragrance: little to none — a plus if scent isn’t your thing.
• Best for: beginners; they are the easiest, hardiest, and most reliable type.

Oriental lilies (mid to late summer)

• Bloom time: mid to late summer, after Asiatics fade.
• Height: 3 to 6 feet, often needing support.
• Fragrance: intense and sweet — one stem can perfume a whole room. ‘Stargazer’ is the famous example.
• Best for: cut flowers and fragrance lovers.

Trumpet and Orienpet lilies (mid to late summer)

• Bloom time: mid to late summer.
• Height: the giants of the group, frequently 4 to 8 feet.
• Fragrance: strong and spicy, with large flaring trumpet blooms.
• Best for: bold focal points; absolutely need staking.

If you want lilies specifically for arrangements, fragrant Orientals and trumpets have the longest vase life and the most presence. They earn a place on most lists of the best cut flowers to grow.

Planting lily bulbs in fall or spring

Lilies can be planted in fall or early spring. Fall planting is ideal where winters are not brutally cold, because the bulbs settle in and root before going dormant, then explode out of the ground the following summer. Spring planting works fine too, as soon as the soil can be worked. Either way, plant promptly — lily bulbs never go fully dormant and dry out quickly, so don’t let them sit around.

Depth, spacing, and drainage

• Depth: plant each bulb about three times as deep as it is tall. For a typical 2-inch bulb, that means a 6-inch hole. Deeper planting keeps the bulb cool and helps anchor tall stems.
• Spacing: set bulbs 8 to 12 inches apart; group three or five together for a fuller display.
• Orientation: point the growing tip (the pointed end with old roots underneath) upward.
• Drainage is everything: lilies rot in soggy soil. If your ground stays wet, dig in compost and coarse grit, plant on a slight mound, or use raised beds. A handful of sand or grit under each bulb improves drainage right at the base.

When you’re shopping, buy plump, firm bulbs — the bigger the bulb, the more flowers. You’ll find a wide selection of lily bulbs online, and fall is when the freshest stock appears.

Sun, soil, and “feet in shade”

The old gardening rule for lilies is “head in the sun, feet in the shade.” Lilies want at least six hours of direct sun on their flowers and leaves to bloom well, but their roots prefer to stay cool and moist. Bake the root zone and the bulbs sulk; shade the flowers and the plants stretch and flop.

• Choose a spot with full sun to light afternoon shade.
• Keep roots cool by underplanting with low perennials, annuals, or groundcover that shades the soil surface.
• Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of bark or leaf mold to insulate roots and lock in moisture.
• Aim for slightly acidic to neutral, fertile, well-drained soil. Oriental lilies in particular dislike alkaline soil.

Watering, feeding, and staking

Watering

Keep the soil evenly moist through the growing and blooming season, watering deeply about once a week in dry spells. Water at the base rather than overhead to keep foliage dry and reduce disease. The balance to strike is consistent moisture without waterlogging — remember, the bulbs rot in standing water, so good drainage protects you from overwatering mistakes.

Feeding

• Feed in spring as shoots emerge with a balanced or slightly potassium-rich bulb fertilizer.
• Give a second light feeding when flower buds form to fuel the blooms and recharge the bulb.
• Avoid heavy nitrogen, which produces lush leaves and weak stems at the expense of flowers.

A granular bulb fertilizer worked into the soil at planting and again each spring covers most of what lilies need.

Staking tall types

Asiatic lilies often stand on their own, but tall Oriental and trumpet types loaded with heavy blooms will topple in wind or rain. Insert a stake at planting time or early in the season so you don’t spear the bulb later. Tie the stem loosely in two or three places with soft ties as it grows, keeping the support discreet behind the foliage. A set of sturdy plant stakes pays for itself the first time a storm hits.

Deadheading, dividing, and growing in pots

Deadheading — but never the foliage

As each flower fades, snip off the spent bloom (and the swelling seed pod behind it) so the plant pours energy into the bulb instead of making seed. This is the one rule to never break: leave the stem and leaves standing until they yellow and die back naturally in fall. Those green leaves are recharging the bulb for next year’s show. Cutting foliage early — or mowing it down — is the fastest way to get fewer, weaker flowers, or none at all. When you cut lilies for the vase, take no more than a third of the stem so plenty of leaves remain.

Dividing clumps

Lily bulbs multiply over time, and after three or four years a clump may bloom less as the bulbs crowd. In fall, lift the clump carefully with a fork, gently pull apart the bulbs, and replant them at the proper depth with fresh compost. You’ll often find small bulblets you can pot up to grow on. Dividing rejuvenates tired plants and gives you free lilies to spread around the garden.

Growing lilies in pots

• Use a deep container — at least 12 inches — with generous drainage holes.
• Fill with free-draining potting mix; plant bulbs a bit closer than in the ground, three to a large pot.
• Cover bulbs with about twice their height of mix, since pots restrict depth.
• Water when the top inch dries and feed every couple of weeks once growth is active.
• In cold winters, move dormant pots to a sheltered, unheated spot so the bulbs don’t freeze solid.

Pests, problems, and the serious cat warning

WARNING: lilies are highly toxic to cats

This cannot be overstated. True lilies (Lilium) and daylilies (Hemerocallis) are extremely toxic to cats. Every part of the plant — petals, leaves, pollen, stem, and even the water in a vase — can cause fatal kidney failure if a cat chews it, swallows pollen while grooming, or drinks the vase water. A tiny exposure can be deadly. If you own cats, the safest choice is to keep lilies out of your home and garden entirely. If you suspect any exposure, treat it as an emergency and contact a veterinarian immediately — early treatment is the difference between life and death. (Lilies are far less dangerous to dogs, usually causing only mild stomach upset, but cats are uniquely vulnerable.)

The red lily beetle

The bright scarlet lily leaf beetle is the lily grower’s main enemy. Adults and their slimy larvae chew leaves, buds, and flowers, and a serious infestation can strip a plant. Inspect from spring onward and handpick the beetles into soapy water — they drop and play dead when disturbed, so cup a hand below them. Removing the dark larvae (which cover themselves in their own excrement as camouflage) keeps damage down. Other troubles include aphids, which spread virus, plus gray mold (botrytis) in damp seasons and bulb rot in wet soil — all reasons to favor airflow and sharp drainage.

For more on related bulbs and reliable summer color, see our guides to tiger lily care and how to grow tulips, or browse the full plant & flower care guide for everything from soil to season-by-season tasks.

Frequently asked questions