Perennial Bulbs That Come Back Every Year

The bulbs that come back most reliably year after year are daffodils, alliums, crocus, snowdrops, Siberian squill, grape hyacinths, glory-of-the-snow, camassia and summer snowflake. Plant them once in well-drained soil, let their leaves die back naturally, and most will not only return but multiply into larger drifts. Big hybrid tulips and hyacinths are the bulbs that disappoint most often, fading after a year or two in many gardens. This guide covers the best perennial bulbs by season and region, how to plant them so they naturalize, and the care mistakes that stop bulbs from returning.

Part of our Flowers & Perennials guide →

In this guide

1. What Makes a Bulb Perennial?
2. Best Perennial Bulbs at a Glance
3. The Most Reliable Spring Bulbs
4. Reliable Late-Spring and Summer Bulbs
5. Perennial Bulbs for Warm Southern Gardens
6. How to Plant Bulbs So They Naturalize
7. Planning a Season of Bloom
8. Care That Keeps Bulbs Coming Back
9. Frequently Asked Questions

What Makes a Bulb Perennial?

Every true bulb is technically perennial: after flowering, the leaves rebuild the bulb for the next year. Whether it actually comes back depends on whether your garden gives it what it needs. The key factors are winter chilling (most spring bulbs need several weeks of cold), summer conditions (many prefer dry soil while dormant), good drainage (wet, heavy soil rots bulbs), enough sun on the foliage after bloom, and freedom from pests that eat bulbs. Bulbs that naturalize go a step further, multiplying by offsets or seeding themselves to form colonies.

Many large-flowered hybrid tulips were bred for one spectacular show and split into small, non-flowering bulbs afterward, especially where summers are wet. That’s why they’re often treated as annuals. Some types are far more reliable; see our guide to perennial tulips for the varieties that return.

Best Perennial Bulbs at a Glance

Bulb	Zones	Bloom time	Height	Naturalizes?	Deer and rodent resistant?
Daffodils (Narcissus)	3–8 (some to 9)	Early to late spring	6–20 in	Yes, by offsets	Yes
Alliums	4–8	Late spring to summer	1–4 ft	Many types do	Yes
Snowdrops (Galanthus)	3–7	Late winter	4–6 in	Yes	Yes
Siberian squill (Scilla siberica)	2–8	Early spring	4–6 in	Yes, by seed	Mostly
Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa)	3–8	Early spring	4–6 in	Yes, by seed	Mostly
Grape hyacinth (Muscari)	3–8	Mid-spring	6–8 in	Yes	Yes
Crocus	3–8	Late winter to early spring	3–5 in	Yes	Squirrels may dig
Winter aconite (Eranthis)	3–7	Late winter	3–4 in	Yes, by seed	Yes
Camassia	3–8	Late spring	2–3 ft	Yes	Fairly
Summer snowflake (Leucojum aestivum)	4–9	Mid-spring	12–18 in	Yes	Yes
Species tulips	4–8	Mid-spring	4–12 in	Yes, in dry, sunny sites	No (deer)
Lilies (Asiatic, martagon)	3–8	Summer	2–5 ft	Clumps enlarge	No

The Most Reliable Spring Bulbs

Daffodils

If you only plant one perennial bulb, plant daffodils. They’re toxic to deer, voles, chipmunks and squirrels, so they survive where tulips and crocus get eaten, and they multiply into clumps that can be divided every few years. Choose from early types like ‘February Gold’ and ‘Tête-à-Tête’, reliable large-cups like ‘Ice Follies’ and ‘Carlton’, and late, fragrant jonquils and poeticus types. Our guide to growing daffodils covers planting and dividing.

The minor bulbs: scilla, glory-of-the-snow, snowdrops and winter aconite

These small bulbs are the classic naturalizers. They bloom very early, often through snow, then disappear before trees leaf out, so they’re perfect under deciduous trees and in lawns that won’t be mowed until their foliage yellows. Siberian squill and glory-of-the-snow self-sow freely and can turn a lawn blue within a few years; be aware that Siberian squill is considered invasive in some woodland areas, mostly in the upper Midwest, so check local guidance before planting near natural areas. Snowdrops and winter aconite prefer humus-rich, slightly moist soil in partial shade. See how to grow snowdrops and how to grow scilla for details.

Crocus

Crocus come back and spread well where squirrels and voles leave them alone. Species and “snow” crocus such as Crocus tommasinianus (often called tommies) are less attractive to rodents than large Dutch crocus and seed themselves around. Plant them in lawns, rock gardens and along paths in groups of 25 or more.

Grape hyacinths

Muscari armeniacum is nearly indestructible and spreads quickly. It sends up foliage in fall that lasts through winter, which helps mark where bulbs are planted. It can be too enthusiastic in small beds; less aggressive types include M. latifolium and named white or pale blue forms.

Species tulips

Small wild tulips such as Tulipa tarda, T. clusiana and T. sylvestris are far more perennial than big hybrids, provided they get full sun and dry soil in summer. Rock gardens, gravel beds and south-facing slopes suit them best. Among larger tulips, Darwin hybrids and Fosteriana types are the most likely to return.

Reliable Late-Spring and Summer Bulbs

Alliums

Ornamental onions bridge the gap between spring bulbs and summer perennials. Large globes such as ‘Globemaster’ and ‘Gladiator’, the starry Allium christophii and the late drumstick allium (A. sphaerocephalon) all return reliably in well-drained soil, and deer and rodents avoid them. Drumstick alliums and many smaller species multiply quickly. Read more in how to grow alliums.

Camassia

Native to North America, camassia produces spikes of starry blue, violet or white flowers in late spring. Unlike most bulbs, it tolerates heavy, moist soil, which makes it valuable for rain gardens, meadows and spots near ponds where daffodils would rot.

Summer snowflake

Despite its name, Leucojum aestivum blooms in mid-spring, with nodding white bells tipped in green. It’s one of the most adaptable bulbs: it handles clay and damp soil, tolerates shade, ignores deer, and thrives from zone 4 well into the South.

Lilies

Asiatic and martagon lilies are dependable summer bulbs that form bigger clumps every year in sunny, well-drained spots. Their main threats are deer, rabbits and the red lily leaf beetle in the Northeast. Plant them in spring or fall, 6 to 8 inches deep.

Perennial Bulbs for Warm Southern Gardens

In zones 8 to 10, mild winters don’t give many spring bulbs the chilling they need. The bulbs that persist in the South include jonquils and tazetta daffodils (such as ‘Grand Primo’ and paperwhites in the warmest zones), summer snowflake, spring starflower (Ipheion), red spider lily and surprise lilies (Lycoris), rain lilies (Zephyranthes), and crinum lilies. Many of these are long-lived heirlooms that still mark old homesteads. Big tulips and hyacinths need pre-chilling and are best treated as annuals there.

How to Plant Bulbs So They Naturalize

• Timing: plant spring-blooming bulbs in fall when soil temperatures drop below about 60 degrees F, typically September to October in the North, October to November in the mid-South, and November to December in zones 8 and 9. See our fall vs spring bulbs guide for summer bloomers.
• Drainage: choose a spot that doesn’t puddle after rain. In heavy clay, plant on a slight rise or work in compost and grit.
• Depth: about 3 times the bulb’s height: roughly 6 to 8 inches for daffodils and large alliums, 3 to 4 inches for crocus, scilla and grape hyacinths.
• Spacing: plant in natural-looking drifts rather than rows. Scatter bulbs by hand and plant them where they land. Groups of at least 10 large bulbs or 25 small ones make an impact.
• Sun: most need at least half-day sun while in leaf. Under deciduous trees counts, since bulbs grow before the canopy closes.
• Tools: a long-handled bulb auger or planter speeds up planting hundreds of bulbs; see our roundup of bulb planters.

Planning a Season of Bloom

Because these bulbs flower in a predictable sequence, you can plan a planting that blooms from late winter into summer. In a typical zone 6 garden, snowdrops and winter aconite open first in February or early March, followed by snow crocus, Siberian squill and glory-of-the-snow in March. Early daffodils and grape hyacinths take over in late March and April, mid- and late-season daffodils and species tulips carry through April, and camassia, summer snowflake and large alliums finish in May and June, handing off to lilies in summer. Shift that calendar two to four weeks earlier in warmer zones and later in colder ones.

Layering, sometimes called a bulb lasagna, packs several of these into one spot: plant large bulbs such as daffodils and alliums deepest, then cover with a few inches of soil and add a layer of small bulbs such as crocus or scilla on top. The small bulbs flower first and the large ones come up through them, extending the display in the same square foot.

Care That Keeps Bulbs Coming Back

• Leave the foliage. Let leaves stay until they turn yellow, typically 6 weeks or so after bloom. Don’t braid, tie or mow them early; that’s when the bulb stores energy for next year.
• Deadhead big bulbs such as daffodils and tulips so energy goes to the bulb rather than seed. Leave minor bulbs to set seed if you want them to spread.
• Feed lightly. Top-dress with compost or a balanced or bulb fertilizer in fall or as shoots emerge in spring. Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer near bulbs.
• Keep summer soil on the dry side. Avoid planting bulbs where irrigation runs all summer, especially tulips and alliums.
• Divide crowded clumps. When daffodils produce lots of leaves but few flowers, dig and separate them after the foliage dies back, then replant immediately.
• Protect from pests. Plant tulips and crocus in wire cages or among daffodils if voles and squirrels are a problem.

For combining bulbs with perennials that hide their fading foliage, such as hostas, daylilies and catmint, see our flowers and perennials guide.