Most home orchid propagation comes down to two methods. Phalaenopsis (moth orchids) grow from a single stem and rarely split, so you propagate them by potting up keikis, the baby plantlets that sometimes form on a flower spike or at the base. Sympodial orchids, such as cattleyas, oncidiums, cymbidiums and many dendrobiums, grow sideways from a rhizome that produces new pseudobulbs each year, so you propagate them by dividing the clump into sections of three or four pseudobulbs. Both methods produce flowering-size plants faster than any other home technique, and both are mainly about timing: wait until the new piece has its own roots, cut cleanly with sterile tools, and pot it in a small container of fresh orchid mix. Growing orchids from seed requires sterile lab flasks and is not practical at home.
Part of our Houseplants & Container Gardening guide →
In this guide
Key Takeaways
- Identify your orchid’s growth habit first: monopodial (single stem, like phalaenopsis) or sympodial (rhizome and pseudobulbs, like cattleya).
- Remove a phalaenopsis keiki once it has 2 to 3 leaves and several roots 2 to 3 inches long.
- Divide sympodial orchids into sections of at least 3 to 4 healthy pseudobulbs, just as new growth begins.
- Sterilize blades between plants to avoid spreading viruses.
- Pot new plants in small pots, keep humidity high, and hold off on fertilizer until new roots are growing.
Know Your Orchid’s Growth Habit
| Growth habit | How it grows | Common examples | Main home propagation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Monopodial | A single upright stem adds leaves at the top | Phalaenopsis, Vanda, Ascocentrum | Keikis; top cuttings for tall vandas |
| Sympodial | A horizontal rhizome produces new pseudobulbs or canes each season | Cattleya, Oncidium, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Miltonia, Paphiopedilum (no pseudobulbs, but clumping) | Division; back bulbs; cane cuttings for some dendrobiums |
If you are not sure which you have, look at the base. A row of swollen bulb-like stems connected by a creeping stem means sympodial. A single central stem with leaves stacked alternately on either side means monopodial. For care basics before and after propagation, see our guide on how to care for orchids and the houseplants and container gardening hub.
Propagating Phalaenopsis Keikis
“Keiki” is Hawaiian for baby. It is a genetically identical plantlet that forms from a dormant node, usually on the flower spike after blooming, and occasionally at the base of the plant (a basal keiki). Keikis often form when the mother plant is stressed, when temperatures stay warm after blooming, or simply by chance.
When to remove a keiki
Be patient. A keiki draws food from the mother plant until it has its own roots, and removing it too early is the most common reason keikis fail. Wait until it has:
- At least 2 to 3 leaves, each about 2 inches long or more.
- Two or three roots at least 2 to 3 inches long, firm and silvery-green.
That usually takes several months to a year after the keiki first appears. You can mist the keiki’s roots occasionally or hang a small bag of damp sphagnum moss near them to encourage growth, but do not let water pool in the keiki’s crown.
How to remove and pot a keiki
- Sterilize your blade. Use a razor blade or pruners wiped with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol or flamed. Orchid viruses spread easily on tools.
- Cut the spike. Cut the flower spike about 1/2 to 1 inch above and below the keiki, leaving a short stub attached. For basal keikis, cut between the keiki and the mother plant’s stem, keeping as many of the keiki’s roots intact as possible.
- Seal the cut. Dust the cut ends on both mother and keiki with ground cinnamon or a fungicide powder.
- Choose a small pot. A 2- to 3-inch clear plastic pot with drainage lets you see roots and moisture.
- Pot it. Gently curl the roots into the pot and fill around them with moistened sphagnum moss or fine-grade orchid bark. Sphagnum holds more moisture, which helps small root systems; fine bark is more forgiving if you tend to overwater. Our comparison of orchid bark vs sphagnum moss covers the trade-offs.
- Stabilize. If the keiki wobbles, clip the spike stub to a short stake. Movement breaks tender new root tips.
Encouraging keikis with keiki paste
Keiki paste is a lanolin-based paste containing a cytokinin plant hormone. Applied to a dormant node on a phalaenopsis flower spike after carefully peeling back the papery bract, it can trigger a keiki or a new flower spike. Results are inconsistent; some nodes produce keikis, some produce flowers and some do nothing. Use it only on healthy, mature plants, apply a tiny amount to one or two nodes, and keep it off roots and leaves. It is a fun experiment but not a reliable propagation method.
Dividing Sympodial Orchids
Cattleyas, oncidiums, cymbidiums, dendrobiums and similar orchids form a chain of pseudobulbs along a rhizome. The newest growth at the front (the lead) produces flowers and new roots; older back bulbs store food. A clump that has filled its pot and is spilling over the edge is ready to divide.
When to divide
Divide right after flowering, as new growths appear and before their new roots get long, typically in spring for most types. New roots at the base of the lead growth are the signal: when they are just emerging or under about half an inch, the plant can root quickly into fresh mix. Dividing when roots are long risks breaking them.
How to divide
- Unpot the plant. Soak the pot briefly if roots cling to it, then work the plant out. Remove old mix from the roots.
- Trim dead roots. Cut off mushy brown or hollow papery roots with sterile tools. Healthy roots are firm and white, green or tan.
- Plan your cuts. Each division should have at least 3 to 4 healthy pseudobulbs, ideally including an active lead or an eye (a dormant bud at the base of a pseudobulb). Small divisions of one or two bulbs survive but may take years to bloom.
- Cut the rhizome. Use a sterile blade to cut through the rhizome between pseudobulbs. Sometimes it is easier to cut the rhizome in place a season ahead; the cut encourages back eyes to break.
- Dust and pot. Dust cuts with cinnamon or fungicide. Pot each division with the oldest bulb against the pot edge and the lead pointing toward the center, so it has room to grow for two or more years. Set the rhizome at or just below the surface of the mix.
- Anchor. Stake or clip divisions firmly; pseudobulbs that rock in the pot will not root.
Use a mix suited to the genus: medium bark for cattleyas, a finer bark mix for oncidiums, and a chunkier bark-based mix with some fine material for cymbidiums. Our guide to orchid potting mixes breaks down options.
Growing on back bulbs
Old, leafless pseudobulbs cut from the back of a cymbidium or cattleya can still produce new growth from dormant eyes. Clean off dead sheaths, set back bulbs in a small pot of damp sphagnum or fine bark (or seal them in a clear bag with damp moss), and keep them warm and in bright, indirect light. A new shoot may appear in a few weeks to a few months. Back bulb plants take several years to flower, but it is a way to keep a sentimental plant going.
Dendrobium Cane Cuttings and Keikis
Many dendrobiums, especially the soft-cane types (Dendrobium nobile and its hybrids), readily produce keikis along their canes. Remove them once they have roots 1 to 2 inches long and pot them as for phalaenopsis keikis. You can also propagate from old canes: cut a leafless cane into sections with two or three nodes each, lay them on a tray of damp sphagnum moss, cover loosely with a clear lid and keep warm and bright. Keikis may form at the nodes over several weeks to months. Hard-cane dendrobiums are usually divided like other sympodial orchids instead.
Top Cuttings for Vandas and Tall Monopodials
Vandas and old phalaenopsis that have grown tall, with many aerial roots along the stem, can be propagated by cutting off the top. Make the cut below at least three healthy aerial roots, so the top section has its own root system. Pot the top in a basket or coarse mix. The bottom stump often produces new side shoots from dormant buds, giving you two plants. This works only with stems that already have plenty of aerial roots; our article on why orchids grow aerial roots explains what is normal.
Aftercare for New Orchid Divisions and Keikis
- Light: Bright, indirect light; slightly lower than the mother plant gets for the first few weeks.
- Humidity: Aim for 50 to 70 percent. A humidity tray, a clear plastic dome or grouping plants helps small keikis.
- Water: Water when the mix is nearly dry for bark or when sphagnum feels barely damp. New divisions with few roots dry slowly; overwatering rots them. Mist pseudobulbs lightly rather than drenching if roots have not yet grown.
- Temperature: Keep phalaenopsis keikis between about 65 and 80°F. Cattleya and cymbidium divisions like similar daytime warmth with cooler nights.
- Fertilizer: Wait until new roots are an inch or two long, usually four to eight weeks, then feed at quarter to half strength with each watering or every other watering.
Expect new plants to take time to bloom. A phalaenopsis keiki typically needs one to three years to reach flowering size. A healthy three- or four-bulb cattleya division may bloom the next season; smaller divisions and back bulbs take longer.
Troubleshooting
Keiki leaves shrivel after removal: It was removed with too few roots, or is drying out. Increase humidity with a dome and keep the mix lightly moist.
Division pseudobulbs wrinkle: Normal for a few weeks while roots regrow. If they keep shriveling and turn soft or black, check for rot at the base.
No new growth from back bulbs: Some never break. Give them warmth and time, up to several months, before discarding.
Mother plant declines after keiki removal: Usually not caused by the removal. Check roots and light; see how to repot an orchid if the mix is old.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for an orchid keiki to grow roots?
Usually several months. Keikis are ready to remove when they have two or three leaves and several roots 2 to 3 inches long, which can take six months to a year after they first appear.
Can you propagate a phalaenopsis from a leaf?
No. Phalaenopsis leaves cannot grow new plants. Use keikis, or for tall plants with many aerial roots, a top cutting.
How many pseudobulbs should each orchid division have?
At least three to four healthy pseudobulbs, ideally with an active new growth or dormant eye. Smaller divisions can survive but take longer to bloom.
Should I plant a keiki in bark or moss?
Sphagnum moss holds moisture and suits small root systems, especially in dry homes. Fine bark drains faster and is safer if you tend to overwater. Both work with careful watering.
Can I grow orchids from seed at home?
Not practically. Orchid seeds are dust-like and lack food reserves, so they need sterile lab flasks with a nutrient gel to germinate. Keikis and division are the realistic home methods.