Having a groundhog (woodchuck) trapped and removed typically costs a few hundred dollars, and adding burrow exclusion around a deck, shed or foundation often takes the total to $500–$1,500 or more. Trapping alone deals with today’s animal; exclusion, meaning wire mesh buried along the structure so the next groundhog can’t dig in, is what keeps the problem from coming back. Burrow repair, foundation voids and garden fencing add to the bill. Below are typical price ranges for each part of the job, the factors that move them, what extension research says about methods that work, and when DIY makes sense.
In this guide
Key Takeaways
- Trapping and removal is usually a few hundred dollars for one groundhog; exclusion and repairs push totals higher.
- Exclusion with buried wire mesh is the long-term fix for burrows under decks, sheds and porches.
- Montana State University Extension reports no repellents are effective for woodchucks.
- For gardens, a 3-foot fence with the bottom buried 10–12 inches, plus an electric wire to stop climbing, is the recommended barrier.
- Trapping, relocation and lethal control are regulated differently by state; check rules before doing it yourself.
Typical Groundhog Removal Costs
Wildlife control companies price groundhog jobs in different ways: per visit, per animal, or as a package with exclusion and a guarantee. These are typical US ranges to help you evaluate quotes; your local market may differ.
| Service | Typical range | What’s included |
|---|---|---|
| Inspection / site visit | About $75–$250 (often credited toward the job) | Locate burrow entrances, assess damage, recommend a plan |
| Trapping and removal, first animal | About $150–$500 | Trap setup, regular checks, removal |
| Each additional groundhog | About $50–$150 | Removal of extra animals from the same site |
| One-way door on burrow | About $150–$400 | Door fitted at main entrance, follow-up |
| Exclusion under deck, shed or porch | About $300–$1,500+ | Trenching and burying wire mesh around the perimeter |
| Burrow filling and lawn repair | About $100–$500 | Collapsing tunnels, backfilling, compacting, reseeding |
| Foundation or slab void repair | Several hundred to several thousand dollars | Filling voids under slabs or stoops; may need a contractor |
| Garden exclusion fence | Varies with length | Buried wire fence, often with electric wire |
A typical package for a groundhog under a shed looks like this: inspection, trapping or eviction over a week or so, then trenching along the shed perimeter and burying wire mesh, followed by backfilling the burrow. Depending on the shed size, that usually falls between several hundred dollars and the low four figures.
What Affects the Price
Burrow location
Groundhogs favor dry, protected spots: under sheds, decks, porches, concrete stoops, along foundations and at the edges of fields and woodlines. A burrow in an open lawn is relatively simple. A burrow system under a concrete patio or against a foundation takes more labor, and if soil has been hollowed out, the repair can be the biggest part of the bill.
Number of animals and time of year
Groundhogs breed in early spring and young appear in late spring and early summer, so a mother with young means more trapping visits. Groundhogs hibernate through winter, so trapping is generally a spring-through-fall job. Avoid sealing burrows when young may be inside.
Exclusion perimeter
Exclusion is priced largely by length. Pros trench along the structure and bury galvanized wire mesh, often bent outward in an L shape at the bottom so digging animals hit a horizontal barrier. A small garden shed might need 30–40 feet; a large deck can need well over 100.
Damage repair
Groundhog burrows can run several feet deep with multiple entrances. Collapsing and backfilling tunnels, repairing lawn, and especially filling voids under slabs, stoops or foundations add cost. Severe foundation concerns warrant a contractor or structural assessment.
Regulations and disposal
Rules on trapping, relocation and lethal control vary by state. Montana State University Extension’s woodchuck control guidance notes that woodchuck legal status varies widely by state, that some states or localities restrict body-gripping traps, and advises checking with your state wildlife agency before using any control method. Licensed operators build compliance into their pricing.
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How Pros Remove Groundhogs
Live trapping
The MSU guidance recommends cage traps at least 10 x 12 x 32 inches, baited with apple slices, carrots or lettuce that’s replaced daily, placed at main burrow entrances or along travel routes, with guide logs to funnel animals in. It also advises checking traps twice a day, morning and evening. Relocation at least 10 miles away is an option only where regulations allow; many states restrict it.
Exclusion and one-way doors
Where a groundhog lives under a structure, pros often fit a one-way door at the main burrow entrance once other entrances are sealed, let the animal leave, confirm the burrow is empty, then install the buried mesh barrier and backfill. This avoids handling the animal and ends with a permanent barrier.
What doesn’t work
The MSU guidance states that no repellents are effective for woodchucks, and that scarecrows and similar devices give only a few days of relief. Products marketed as groundhog repellents may buy a little time in a garden; our groundhog repellents roundup covers what’s available, but don’t count on them to remove an established groundhog. Any pesticide or fumigant must be used exactly as its label directs and only where legal, and fumigating burrows near buildings is a fire and safety hazard best left to licensed professionals.
Protecting Gardens: Fencing Specs That Work
If the groundhog’s main target is your vegetable garden, fencing can be cheaper than repeated trapping. The MSU guidance recommends:
- A fence at least 3 feet high made of heavy poultry wire or 2-inch woven wire mesh.
- The bottom edge buried 10–12 inches deep to stop digging underneath.
- An electric wire 4–5 inches off the ground and 4–5 inches out from the fence to stop climbing; woodchucks climb well.
A common DIY alternative to the electric wire is leaving the top 12–18 inches of the fence unattached to posts, so it flops back when a groundhog climbs. Bending the bottom of the mesh outward in an L shape underground also discourages digging.
DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
| Approach | Cost | Best for | Risks |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY garden fence | Low to moderate: wire, posts, electric kit | Groundhog feeding in vegetable beds | Labor of trenching; fence must be buried and climb-proofed |
| DIY live trapping | Moderate: trap purchase or rental | Single animal, where trapping and release rules allow | Legal violations, bites, catching pets or skunks |
| DIY exclusion after removal | Low to moderate: mesh and fasteners | Small sheds once the burrow is confirmed empty | Sealing an animal in; shallow mesh gets dug under |
| Professional removal and exclusion | Higher | Burrows under decks, porches, slabs or foundations | Cost; vet licensing and guarantee |
Before sealing any burrow yourself, confirm it’s empty. Loosely stuff the entrance with newspaper or leaves; if it stays undisturbed for two or three days in the active season, the groundhog is likely gone. Groundhogs can bite and may carry disease, so never corner or handle one. For more on keeping wildlife and pests in check, see our pest control guide.
Signs You Have a Groundhog
- A burrow entrance about 10–12 inches across with a mound of excavated soil, often under or beside a structure.
- Secondary holes nearby without soil mounds, used as escape exits.
- Vegetables, especially beans, peas, squash and leafy greens, eaten down to stubs.
- A stocky, brown animal seen feeding in early morning or late afternoon.
- Gnawing on wooden structures or fruit trees.
Not sure whether it’s a groundhog or a skunk under the shed? Skunk holes are smaller with less soil at the entrance and often come with odor. Our skunk removal cost guide covers that job, and our overall wildlife removal cost guide compares species.
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How to Keep Groundhog Removal Costs Down
- Act early. A single young groundhog that just moved under a shed is a quicker, cheaper job than an established burrow system with a litter. Call when you first see fresh soil mounds.
- Bundle exclusion with removal. Paying for trapping now and exclusion later usually means two trips and two setup charges. Ask for a combined quote.
- Prep the site. Clear stored items, lumber and brush from around the shed or deck so the crew can trench without extra labor.
- Handle the cosmetic repairs yourself. Once a pro has removed the animal and installed mesh, you can backfill shallow holes, tamp the soil and reseed the lawn.
- Make the yard less inviting. Groundhogs move in where there’s cover and food. Keep grass mowed near structures, remove brush and woodpiles, pick up fallen fruit and fence vegetable beds before they find them.
- Compare at least three quotes. Make sure each covers the same scope: inspection, number of visits, exclusion length, burrow repair and any guarantee.
The cheapest quote isn’t always the best value. A company that only traps, without excluding, leaves the burrow open for the next groundhog in the neighborhood, and abandoned burrows are often taken over by other animals, including skunks and foxes. Paying a little more for exclusion with a guarantee usually costs less over a few years than repeated trapping.
Questions to Ask Before Hiring
- Are you licensed for nuisance wildlife control in this state, and insured?
- Does the quote include exclusion and burrow repair, or only trapping?
- How often will you check traps?
- What happens to the animal after capture?
- Is there a guarantee if another groundhog moves in?
- Will you assess voids under slabs or foundations?
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to remove a groundhog?
Trapping and removing a single groundhog typically costs a few hundred dollars. Adding burrow exclusion under a deck or shed, and filling the burrow, often brings the total to $500–$1,500 or more depending on the size of the structure and access.
Can groundhogs damage a foundation?
Burrows along foundations, slabs and stoops can remove supporting soil and channel water toward the structure. Most damage is minor, but extensive burrowing under slabs can lead to settling or cracking. Have voids assessed and filled if you see sinking.
What is the best time of year to remove groundhogs?
Spring, before young are born, or late summer and early fall, after young are mobile, are generally easiest. Groundhogs hibernate in winter, so trapping isn’t effective then.
Do groundhog repellents work?
Montana State University Extension reports that no repellents are effective for woodchucks. Fencing and exclusion are the reliable long-term solutions.
Can I relocate a groundhog myself?
It depends on your state. Some allow relocation with restrictions, while others prohibit it. Check with your state wildlife agency before trapping, and never release animals on property you don’t own without permission.
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